In order to apply the correct amount of fertilizer, lime, and weed control products to your lawn, you need to know its surface area. Here's how to get that figure.

EXAMPLE: If you lot is 125 feet deep and 100 feet wide simply multiply 125 x 100 to get a total of 12,500 square feet. Subtract from this number the total the square footage of the house footprint, driveway and any other areas that are not lawn areas. The remainder will be the square footage of lawn.

Tip: An easy way to measure long distances is with your garden hose, provided you know its length. For instance, let's say your garden hose is 50' long. The area being measured is 2 1/2 (i.e., 50' + 50' + 25') hose lengths long by 2 hose lengths (50' + 50') wide. This means the area is 125' x 100'. That's 12,500 square feet. You can also rent measuring wheels to pace off long distances or make area calculations from the plat drawing of your property which is included in your title documents (deed).

Depending on the current condition of your lawn, you may choose minor or major renovation. Lawns in acceptable condition will benefit from minor soil preparation, such as that described in ‘Improving an Existing Lawn.' If your lawn is in poor condition or you are establishing a new lawn, the soil preparation described in ‘Starting a New Lawn' is for you.

Improving an existing lawn

Aerate - Core aeration is important for reducing soil compaction, so that water, air, and roots can penetrate the soil more easily. It also provides a great place for seed to germinate.

Core aeration is different from spike aeration , which is not recommended. Spike aeration creates very small holes in the lawn by driving spikes into the ground (numerous products are sold as lawn aerating shoes, rollers, and other devices). This actually increases compaction since no soil is removed; the soil is just displaced around the spike (increasing compaction) to create the hole.

Core aeration creates holes in the lawn by removing ½ - ¾” diameter plugs of soil from the ground, which are distributed on the lawn. These plugs will recycle into the lawn in 1-2 weeks and should be left on the lawn. When renting equipment, be sure to have a staff member show you how to operate the equipment before you leave the store. When aerating, make extra passes over bare areas, which most likely have a high degree of compaction. For best results, prepare the lawn for aerating by mowing grass short and making sure that the soil is moist to a depth of at least 3-4 inches. Spread a light topdressing of compost (~1/4") after aerating to prolong the benefits of core aeration.

Starting with a new lawn

Rototill - In extreme situations it may be necessary to till the soil completely and start from scratch. However, this should be a last resort due to the erosion potential that arises from total cultivation of the soil. If tilling is to be done, take this opportunity to apply any lime, fertilizer, and organic matter prior to tilling. This way the tilling process will incorporate these materials into the soil 4 to 6 inches deep.

After tilling, remove any unwanted debris, rocks, etc. from the soil, then rake the area to create an even surface. After raking use a lawn roller to smooth out the seed bed. Now you're ready to seed.

Soil Testing

The first step to a beautiful lawn is a soil test. Soil testing provides information on the availability of nutrients already present in your soil.

Soil testing is available through the Cooperative Extension in two forms: 1) the Virginia Tech Soil Testing Lab, and 2) the Chesterfield Extension Office Grass Roots Program. Tech soil analyses cost $7.00 per sample. We recommend getting an organic matter content analysis of your soil as well, which costs an additional $3. Homeowners can pickup Tech soil sample kits at any Chesterfield Public Library or at the Extension Office. The homeowner then collects the soil sample and mails it directly to Tech. The analyses are performed on-campus at Virginia Tech year-round, and the results are mailed to the homeowner in 10 to 14 days of receipt of the sample. The homeowner will need to measure his or her lawn to determine the amounts of fertilizer/lime/herbicides needed for their lawn when applied at the recommended rate. For information on how to measure your lawn, please see the following section.

The Grass Roots Program is conducted by Extension staff and Master Gardener volunteers March through July of each year. The cost for this program is $20. A homeowner registered in the program receives a site visit from a Master Gardener, who collects the soil sample, measures the lawn area(s), and completes a site evaluation. The soil is analyzed (including the organic matter analysis) at a local agricultural lab and specific fertilizer and pH adjustment recommendations are made for each homeowner by the Extension ANR Technician. The homeowner also receives informational lawn care publications specific to issues in their lawn. Four quarterly newsletters are mailed to registered homeowners over the following year.

For more information on the Grass Roots program, please visit the Grass Roots webpage

The soil test provides recommendations as to what additional nutrients you may need and if you need to correct your soil's pH (apply lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower it). Lawns do best with a pH between 6.2 and 6.5. When soil pH is outside this range, grass is less able to take up nutrients. In other words, without the correct pH, nutrients will not be available to the grass even if you fertilize it. The report will also indicate how much and what type of lime/sulfur you need.

Application Equipment

Generally two types of application equipment are available to buy or rent. Drop spreaders actually drop the material straight resulting in very precise distribution of the material. Total coverage requires a slight overlap of the wheel marks to avoid skipping places. Broadcast spreaders sling the material several feet in front of and to the sides of the spreader. Generally, the application rate is less the further from the spreader the material is thrown. While overlapping wheel marks is not required, the user must adjust turns to insure an even distribution. Care must be given when using a broadcast spreader to avoid throwing material into adjacent landscaped areas and onto impervious surfaces such as driveways and sidewalks.

Fertilizing

In September, make your first application of the appropriate fertilizer at the recommended rate (see the chart on How Much Fertilizer), being careful to keep it off driveways, out of ditches and other places where it may be washed away. S eptember, O ctober, and N ovember ( SON ) are the ideal months to fertilize cool season grasses. These grasses produce many of their roots in the fall – while soil temperatures are warm, air temperatures are gradually falling, and (in a normal year) rainfall is fairly frequent. The leaves of the plants are producing carbohydrates (food), which support root growth and are also being stored for later use. Because of all this growth activity, the grass can make the best use of fertilizer nutrients if we apply them now.

How Much Fertilizer?

Fertilize cool season grass in September, October & November; and fertilize warm season grass in May, June & July. Refer to the chart for amounts to apply.

Fertilizers used here are examples and are not intended to suggest they are the only ones available or recommended. The Cooperative Extension recommends 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 ratio fertilizers for maintenance of lawns once any nutrient deficiencies identified by a soil analysis have been corrected.

Lime

Your soil test may indicate that your lawn needs lime. Lime may be applied at any time of year in which the soil is not frozen. Pelleted lime is easiest to use for surface application and it also works quickly once it is moistened by rain or irrigation. Apply only if testing shows it is needed! Apply lime at a rate no greater than 50 lbs/1000 square feet. If your soil test results indicate that you need more than 50 lbs/1000 square feet lime, you will need to split the applications and space them 60-90 days apart. For example, if your test results indicate a need for 120 lbs/1000 square feet , you can split the applications as 50, 50, and 20 or three 40-lb applications.

Seed Selection

Quality seed is important when starting a new lawn or overseeding an existing lawn. Most property owners in the Chesterfield area prefer fescue as their choice of grass. Fescue is a cool season grass which grows best in the fall, winter and spring. It is a perennial and with proper maintenance will survive even the hot dry summers of central Virginia.

Today there are over 100 varieties of fescue on the market. In general, all do well in this climate. Our recommendation is to use a mixture of any two or more of these varieties. A list of the specific varieties on Virginia Tech's recommended turf list is available on the internet and through the Extension office. All of the garden centers in Chesterfield carry our recommended varieties as well as good mixtures. The most important thing is to use " turf-type" tall fescue.

Seeding

Once these steps are done, you are ready to overseed and/or repair your lawn. Seed germinates readily in the warm soil, provided there is sufficient moisture, and will have the best conditions for establishing itself over the next couple months before winter sets in. Ideally, seed should be sown before September 15 th . This allows sufficient growth to take place so that appropriate weed control may safely be applied in late fall. On slopes or bare areas a light layer of straw will help hold the seed in place and reduce moisture loss. If the slope is very steep, landscape burlap or other protective covering may be necessary.

When seeding bare soil, use 4-6 pounds of fescue per 1,000 sq. ft. However, if overseeding an existing lawn, use 2-3 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. Overseeding is the process of broadcasting a lesser amount of seed into an area that has grass but needs to be improved. Remember when it comes to seeding lawns, more is not better. If you apply seed at more than the recommended rate chances are you will get great germination, but as each grass plant grows they will compete with each other for the limited nutrients, water, and space. Too many grass plants in a given area will result in significant dieback.

Watering

Keep the seed moist until it germinates, typically 10-14 days. This may mean a couple of light waterings (10-15 minutes) each day, depending on rainfall, wind, and air temperatures. Once the seed has germinated, deeper watering (½" twice a week) is appropriate until the grass is established. Mulching products, such as Penn Mulch, help to maintain soil moisture for proper germination.

Mowing New Seedlings

Once your grass is up and growing, mow it using a sharp mower blade so seedlings are not pulled up. Mow when the grass is about 4" high, taking off no more than one-third of the blade. Mowing high helps encourage the grass to set its roots deeply into the soil, which in turn increases grass strength and drought resistance and deters weed growth. You'll need to mow your new grass at least 3 times before applying a broadleaf weed control product.

Lawn Mower Maintenance

Leaf Removal

Rake or blow gently ! It is important to keep leaves and other debris off the grass so that as much sunlight as possible can reach it. Allowing leaves to remain on new seedlings for a week or more can smother the seedlings and kill them. Be careful not to pull up new seedlings.

Key Points for September

Questions? Contact us by e-mail

Commercial products and organizations are named in this publication for information purposes only. The Virginia Cooperative Extension Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University and Virginia State University do not endorse or warrant these products and organizations and do not intend or imply discrimination against other products or organizations that also may be suitable.

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Cooperative Extension

Lawns Online! Lesson 1 - August & September

How to Measure Your Yard

Knowing the area of your lawn is KEY to proper maintenance.

Soil Preparation